Check Out Your Local Range

It’s best to start by researching your local range to determine its policies. Check and see if you can reserve range time, or if it’s on a first-come, first-served basis. See if you can book the entire range for a private party, or make sure you reserve enough lanes for all of your friends, family and any other party enthusiasts who will attend. If it’s first-come, first-served, you and your friends can take turns sharing any available lanes. It’ll function much in the same way as bowling, in that you and your friends can cheer on the person up at the line from the waiting area.

Before the cold winter months set in, check out the outdoor archery ranges in your area. Enjoy the fall weather and take your archery party to a 3D archery course, where you’ll launch arrows at various 3D animal targets, or find an outdoor range with traditional targets.

If you’re an experienced archer, you can teach your friends the basics of safety and form. If you yourself are an archery novice, sign up for an archery class or private instruction so that you and your friends can learn all about archery together. Either way, it will be a great bonding experience for you and your friends, trying something new together, whether it’s new for them or new for all of you.

Check for Events

Archery ranges host events and themed shoots, so check your archery range’s calendar for any weekly events or upcoming fun events around the holidays. This is a great time to try archery, as the probability is high there will be other archery newcomers present. If you attend an archery party before the holiday season, you might end up with something to add to your wish list!

Bow Rentals

Check to see whether your range offers bow rentals. There are bows with a universal draw length, which means that any archer can use the same bow, regardless of their individual draw length.

You can also check your eye dominance ahead of time to see if you’re left-eye dominant or right-eye dominant. If you’re right-eye dominant, you’ll want to use a right-handed bow. If you’re left-eye dominant, you’ll want to use a left-handed bow. If you have a different dominant eye from your dominant hand, you can choose whichever handed bow feels better for you.

After the party, if you decide that you’d like to pursue archery, the bow technicians will help you select a bow to buy. They will measure your draw length and draw weight and provide you with a bow that fits your needs. Your wingspan, or the measurement across your arms and chest horizontally from fingertip to fingertip, will determine your draw length, and how much weight you can pull back on the bowstring will determine your draw weight.

Get Others Involved

Having an archery party will help you introduce your friends to a new sport, and hopefully a new passion. Whether you’re sharing your love of archery or discovering archery for the first time yourself, an archery party will help unite you and your friend group with a shared, fun experience that also helps local businesses.

Find an archery range near you and start planning your own archery party.

The post Have an Archery Party: Invite Your Friends to the Range for Some Fun! appeared first on Archery 360.

It’s true; Minnesota, Iowa, Oregon and perhaps others have reported that trap shooting at the high school level is growing at a remarkable rate, but that shouldn’t come as a surprise.

Many years ago shooting was the most popular sport in America. Participation was extremely high and it was often the way families spent time together on a day off. Now it looks like  recreational shooting may be making a comeback. 

Trap shooting is a sport with no boundaries. Age and gender don’t make a lot of difference and anybody can be competitive. If you are not the competitive type, you can just have fun shooting targets. It’s impossible not to smile when you powder a clay target. Teenagers learning to shoot trap will hopefully expose their families to the sport and it will continue to grow. So how do youth trap shooters get started? Here are the basics to get your teen breaking clays on the trap field right now.

Your first stop should be to your local shooting range to see if they offer any introductory classes. Most gun shops can help you locate a shooting range. The National Shooting Sports Foundation (NSSF) also has a range finder on their website. Just plug in your zip code and it will list shooting locations near you.

Another handy source to check out is the Scholastic Shooting Sports Foundation (SCPT), which manages the Scholastic Clay Target Program (SCTP) across the United States. SCTP is a youth development program in which adult coaches and other volunteers use shooting sports to teach and demonstrate sportsmanship, responsibility, honesty, ethics, integrity, teamwork, and other positive life skills.

SCTP was developed as a program by the National Shooting Sports Foundation until the SSSF was created in 2007 to operate the SCTP.

NSSF’s Chris Dolnack calls this “Little League with shotguns.” He also points out that this program is a great feeder program for collegiate shooters and even for the Olympic team, so you just never know where this can lead. Perhaps you can become the next Kim Rhode.

Kim is a six-time Olympic medal winner. Most recently, she won the bronze medal at the Rio 2016 Olympics, making her the first Olympian to win a medal on five different continents, the first Summer Olympian to win an individual medal at six consecutive summer games and the first woman to medal in six consecutive Olympics.

I watched her win her first gold medal in Atlanta in 1996 and was the first to interview her after that win. She had just turned 17 years old. Perhaps the next 17-year-old Olympic shooter is just waiting to pick up a shotgun and get started.

5 Great Entry-Level Shotgun Picks:

Photograph Courtesy of Remington Arms Company, LLC

Remington’s new V3 line of autoloaders offers soft recoil and a variety of stock options. Synthetic-stock models, like the V3 Field Sport Compact shown here, are compatible with an adjustable length-of-pull system to create a custom fit for any shooter. The author’s favorite entry-level models are listed below.

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1. Remington Model 870

This pump-action shotgun has been a standard for years. Trap shooting legend Rudy Etchen was the first to ever break 100 straight targets using a pump shotgun. He used a Model 870. Rudy went on to win a lot of championships with the pump gun. The Remington Model 870 is inexpensive and all but indestructible. It’s been breaking clay targets for nearly 70 years and is still a great choice.

2. Remington Model 11-87

This gas operated semi-auto offers affordable dependability. I have been shooting an 11-87 since it was introduced in 1987 and it’s never given me a bit of trouble.

3. Hatfield USA SAS

This is a very low-priced shotgun that will get you in the game. Made in Turkey, mine required a little breaking time, but after 100 rounds it’s working fine. Best of all, you can buy it for $250.00 from the bigger retailers!

4. Tristar Sporting O/U

Break action, over/under shotguns have a safety advantage in that they can be broken open until you’re ready to shoot and it’s very easy for everyone on the field to see that the gun is safe. Most are very expensive, but Tristar can get you into a completive shotgun for well under a grand.

5. Franchi Affinity Catalyst

Often semi-auto shotguns are big, thick and a bit hard for smaller people to handle. This one has a stock that is optimized to feel right in a woman's hands. That means it fits well with a youth shooter, too. The Affinity Catalyst's drop, cast, pitch and length-of-pull are all tailored to a woman's build. Franchi shotguns are well respected in the shooting world and the price for this one is low compared to the value returned.

Ben Berka is the President & Executive Director of The Scholastic Shooting Sports Foundation During a recent interview he said that there are about 40,000 youth trap shooters in the U.S. today. SCPT works with about 18,000 of those youth shooters across the country. They also have 4,000 volunteers to help run the programs. 

SCPT’s National Championship, held in the Cardinal Shooting Center in Marengo, OH each year, hosts 3,000 shooters and they launch over a million clay targets during that eight-day event. I asked him how an interested person could get started. 

“Just go to our website and plug in your location,” Berka said. 

“We work with both schools and clubs, so the odds are there is a shooting facility near you. If not, consider starting a shooting club. We provide assistance in getting started, finding instructors and we even have discounted equipment packages thanks to our sponsors.” 

The website is very user friendly and there are emails and phone numbers listed for personal contact if you need more detailed help. Ben took time out from a bird hunting trip to talk to me. In my world, that’s true dedication to the job.

Trap shooting is a shotgun sport in which the shooter attempts to hit and break a series of flying targets moving away at various angles. The sport dates back to the late 18th century. 

There are reports that that by 1793, trap shooting was "well established" in England. Back then real birds were used; usually passenger pigeons, which were extremely abundant at the time. Birds were placed under hats or in traps and were then released as targets. 

In the 1860s live bird  targets transitioned to glass balls. They were often filled with colored powder to create a dramatic effect when they were hit. In the late 1800s clay targets were introduced and they are still in use today, although most are not really made out of clay. Modern targets are made from a mixture of pitch and ground limestone. Somehow, though, “clay pigeon” rings better off the tongue than “pitch-and-powdered-limestone pigeon,” so the name stuck.

There are a multitude of variations for trap shooting, but the basic game is for the shooter to fire at 25 different 4.25-inch diameter saucer-shaped targets during a “round” of trap. The shooter gets ready and calls for the bird, usually by saying “pull.” The bird is released and the shooter attempts to break the clay target in flight. 

American Trap is the most popular sport here in the U. S. and can be broken down into three categories: singles, doubles and handicap. The targets are thrown from ground level from a machine in the center of the course and located inside the trap house. 

For singles and doubles, there are five stations, 16 yards behind the trap house. In singles, each competitor shoots at five targets from each station. The trap machine oscillates left to right so the bird’s direction is unknown to the shooter before it is released. 

In doubles, the machine throws two targets simultaneously with each competitor shooting at five (5) pairs (10 targets) from each station. 

In handicap events, the machine operates the same as in singles, but the shooters stand farther away from the trap house.

The equipment list to get started is pretty simple. In addition to a shotgun and ammo, the shooter will need:

• Eye and ear protection.

• A bag that fits on your belt and is designed to hold the shotshell ammo is very helpful.

• Most shooters wear a brimmed hat to help keep the sun out of their eyes. 

• Later you may wish to add a shooting vest with pockets for shells and a built-in recoil pad. 

Odds are high that for your first time you can borrow a shotgun from one of the instructors or perhaps one that is owned by the club. How a shotgun fits you is important to the success and enjoyment of this sport, so it’s probably best to try a few shotguns until you find one you like. 

Top shooters use shotguns that cost many thousands of dollars, but a new shooter can be well served with a much less expensive shotgun. An inexpensive single-shot shotgun can work well to get you started, but you won’t be able to shoot double trap with it. So, it’s best to buy a gun capable of at least two shots. 

Many experienced shooters recommend a gas operated semi-auto shotgun for new shooters because that design tends to mitigate felt recoil. While target loads do not have a lot of recoil and are easy for everybody to shoot, the cumulative effect of shooting 25 to 100 targets in a single session can have a negative impact on your shooting performance. The down side to a semi-auto is that they tend to be a bit heavy. On the other hand, pump action and over/under shotguns are extremely popular and they tend to be lighter in weight, which helps to reduce fatigue.

Trap shooting is a healthy way to enjoy the outdoors and the shooting sports. Give it a try. Who knows, you might just be in Ohio next year shooting for a world championship position or even standing on the podium at the Summer Olympics.

Working from the inside out, here’s what my layering system looks like.

Boxers and Briefs: When I’m headed out in cold or wet weather, I leave my cotton shorts in the drawer and reach for synthetic briefs. Nike, REI, Kuiu, Under Armour, Patagonia, and Saxx all make good options depending on whether you feel more comfortable in compression-type briefs or something a little roomier.

Base Layers: The layer right next to your skin is super important, but there are some subtle trade-offs depending on which fabric you choose.

Synthetic base-layer designs are rugged enough to wear as an outer layer and they work really well to wick moisture away, but they will hold odor-causing bacteria over time—something to consider if you’re going to out for a few days and don’t have a chance to wash your undergarments.

Woolen options, from brands like Icebreaker, Smartwool, and Kari Traa (amazing options for women designed by three-time Olympic ski medalist, Kari Traa) may not wick quite as well as synthetics, but they are naturally resistant to odoriferous bacteria. Wear them as a base layer with other layers on top and they’ll last for years.

Silk feels great next to the skin, but it doesn’t wick as well as wool or synthetics and it needs to be laundered every time you wear it to avoid being labeled “the smelliest person in camp.”

Many makers are now blending wool with synthetic materials. Stone Glacier base layers feature an 89/11 Merino/Nylon blend that offers incredible warmth without the smell.

It’s also important is to match your base layers to the conditions. If it’s not too cold, a lightweight set of tops and bottoms will suffice. If the temps are hovering around freezing, a midweight layer is what you’ll want. And if you’re headed into sub-zero weather, heavyweight base layers are the way to go.

Most manufacturers offer their products in various weight classes and you can always double up by adding a thicker layer on top of a lightweight layer if temperatures really drop.

Midweight Layers: These are designed to trap air, surrounding your body in a layer of warmth. I like to wear a synthetic-filled vest over my base layer; then a polypropylene fleece layer on top of this.

For years I swore by down insulation, and I still wear down vests all the time. If there’s a chance of rain or snow, however, I reach for synthetic-filled vests and hooded mid-weight jackets as they dry faster when they’re wet. Down’s inability to stay dry when wet may be changing, however, thanks for new innovations in fiber-coating technology.

Stone Glacier is experimenting with hydro-phobic down coatings, which may end up being the ultimate solution. Check out the warming drill they conducted with Special Operations forces who plunged into the Yellowstone River to see how fast they could dry out their base layers using natural body heat.

Companies like Ridge Merino are also combining high-tech fabrics like Polartec^® Power Wool, which has incredible stretch and softness, with a brushed Merino wool interior that offers a high warmth-to-weight ratio, great breathability, and natural odor resistance to create an amazing mid-layer.

Outer layers: Insulated jackets and pants are the way to go if the weather is going to get really chilly. Down is a great option if you’re going to take some kind of waterproof outer shell to wear over it. The plus is that it offers more warmth per weight than other materials and it compresses best for packing. First Lite, Stone Glacier, Fjallraven, Kuiu, and Marmot offer some great down jacket designs.

And while synthetic jackets don’t compress down as well as down offerings, they retain more insulating qualities even when they’re wet. Patagonia’s classic Nano Puff Jacket is warm, windproof, and water-resistant. And it’s made using lightweight and highly compressible 60-g PrimaLoft® Gold Insulation Eco. This is made of 100% post-consumer recycled polyester with P.U.R.E.™ (Produced Using Reduced Emissions) technology, wrapped in a 100% recycled polyester shell and lining.

Rainwear/Outer Shells: If the forecast looks rainy or snowy, packing an outer shell (jacket and pants) is the only way to go. Look for lightweight, breathable fabrics that are 100-percent waterproof (not just water resistant).

Helly Hansen, a name synonymous with quality rainwear, offers a full line of shells and rain jackets. Arcteryx offers 27 different shell models designed to face anything from heavy coastal rains to high winds and deep snow. It’s pricey, but the quality is certainly there.

Stio’s Exploit Hooded Jacket is also a great option, and don’t forget reliable designs from big outlets like REI, L.L. Bean, and EMS.

Layering up on hot days may seem counterintuitive, but here again, wickabilty is what you’re looking for because moving moisture away from your skin provides natural air conditioning that will keep you feeling cooler, even on the most scorching days.

Start with a synthetic t-shirt next to your skin. This will wick moisture out to your outer layer to keep you cool and dry.

Look for outer layers featuring fabrics that are lightweight, wickable, and offer sun protection. Kuhl’s AirKÜHL Hoody is super soft, amazingly wickable, and it offers maximum sun protection (UPF 50+) paired with odor resistance.

For many Western hunters, this challenge is literally part of the landscape. West of Nebraska, public land is abundant and accessible. Hunting opportunities are varied and plentiful. And while outfitters do good business, most hunts are open to anyone with a tag and a willingness to learn the country and the animals, and who can take care of themselves in landscapes with few signs of human development.

But a Western hunting trip is seldom as easy as loading up the Suburban and pointing it toward the sunset. Many big-game tags require years of going through the application process before you draw. Season dates, bag limits, and hunting-unit boundaries often change from year to year. And then there’s the scale of the country. It’s big and wild, and often requires specialized gear. Sound intimidating? It is, but don’t let that scare you away from an awesome adventure. Here’s a way to get started.

These five hunts represent classic Western public-land adventures, but they don’t require years of planning and license preference-point accumulation. And all are easily accomplished with basic gear. Best of all, you can do them right now!

The clock is ticking on the largest native upland bird of the West. Sage grouse are a perennial candidate for listing as an endangered species, mainly because of habitat loss. Hunting opportunities for “bombers,” as sage grouse are often called for their ponderous flight, have been restricted over the years. Currently, only a couple of states offer sage grouse hunting.

Wyoming has the most abundant sage grouse population in the West, but the season runs for only a fortnight in the best area, called Hunt Area 1, which basically covers the western half of the state. The season runs Sept. 16-30 this year, and hunters can bag two sage grouse a day and keep four in possession. Nonresident hunting licenses cost $74 for the season (allowing you to also hunt sharptail grouse, partridge, and pheasants), or $22 per day. There’s also a nonresident youth license, which costs $40 per season and is a good incentive to bring young hunters on this classic Western bird hunt.

GO HERE: The Cowboy State’s best sage grouse area is the expansive sagebrush sea along the historic Mormon and Oregon trails, from Casper west to South Pass. Almost all this land is public (managed by the Bureau of Land Management, and you can camp and fish on much of these federal properties. During late September, hike riparian washes and areas with tall, shady sagebrush, where the birds will seek shade and bugs on hot autumn afternoons.

Sky-darkening flocks of waterfowl, abundant public access and one of the most varied bags in the West are all within sight of metropolitan Salt Lake City. Waterfowling Utah’s Great Salt Lake is one of the most accessible and productive hunts in the West.

Even better, it doesn’t take a lot of planning or gear to bag ducks here in this sprawling inland sea, surrounded with abundant public marshland. For good pass-shooting and decoying with small spreads, head to Bear River Migratory Bird Refuge on the northeast shore of Great Salt Lake.

GO HERE: Set up on dikes on Farmington Bay Waterfowl Management Area, where a small boat will get you away from the crowds and allow you to decoy diving species like redheads, buffleheads, ringnecks, and even the mighty canvasback, the trophy bird of American waterfowlers.

For season rules, license fees, and open (and closed) hunting areas, check out the annual Utah Waterfowl Guidebook.

Drawing a Montana nonresident deer or elk tag can take years of preference-point accumulation or you can buy a bear tag over the counter and hunt the same public areas as you would for antlered game.

There is a catch; you have to take a simple bear-ID test to prove that you can tell the difference between black and grizzly bears, which often share the same habitats in western Montana. The other thing you should know is that bear hunting in Montana is entirely spot-and-stalk. Neither baiting nor hound hunting is legal here. Those restrictions actually improve the hunt; black bear hunting is so similar in locale and style to deer and elk hunting that a bear hunt is a great primer for hunting antlered game.

GO HERE: National forests and wilderness areas from Bozeman to Kalispell offer the best bear hunting. Specific forests include the Lewis & Clark, Flathead, and Lolo. For a directory of each forest, as well as maps showing public-land boundaries, contact the Region 1 office in Missoula, Mont.

A trophy mule deer buck tag for Arizona is one of the most coveted permits in America. But the Grand Canyon state offers abundant hunting opportunities for both mule and Coues deer for hunters who use archery gear.

Many units are open for late-season bowhunting on over-the-counter tags (OTC). And there are few better ways to escape the winter blues in the rest of the nation than spending late December and January in Arizona’s deer country. Both mule deer and Coues deer are huntable on these OTC tags, and because the season corresponds with the Coues deer rut, this is one of the best times to see numbers of the gray ghosts in the desert mountains.

Tags are reasonably priced—$160 for the nonresident hunting license plus the $300 deer tag (resident prices are $45 and $57, respectively)—and units are as varied as Arizona’s terrain. Arizona’s online hunt planner is a great way to identify open units and plan for the mix of terrain and season types that each offer for deer hunters.

GO HERE: For Coues deer, hunt the southern mountains, especially units east of Tucson and near the New Mexico border. Mule deer and Coues deer roam the units along the Mexican border east of Nogales.

With the largest elk herd in the nation, over-the-counter tags and abundant public land, Colorado is an elk-hunters’ destination. Problem is, all that opportunity can lead to frustration unless you do some solid homework and plan to hoof it to get away from access roads and the crowds they attract.

Plan on either the 2nd or 3rd rifle seasons, which run Oct. 20-28 and Nov. 3-11 this year. During these periods, snowfall isn’t too extensive, and elk are still fairly well distributed on public lands. The tough thing is that a big high-country snowfall could certainly change your plans overnight.

GO HERE: For planning, a great starting point is the state’s digital hunting atlas, which shows unit boundaries and game-management unit designations. Cross-reference that information with harvest statistics from Colorado’s Craig region, available from the Division of Parks & Wildlife’s excellent hunting guides, and you should have a good idea of where to find both public land and huntable elk.

The rest is up to you, and your gear. People assume that with over 300,000 head of elk, there’s a wapiti behind every tree. The reality is that to have consistent success in Colorado, you need the ability to hike hard, spend long days in the field, and have the flexibility to move up or down in elevation, or deeper in the backcountry, as conditions dictate.

That stated, it’s up to the individual to decide which way their research should go and what types of bows they should zero in on. This will vary a lot based first on your budget, and then on individual hunting or target shooting experience and needs. In other words, upgrading your bow takes some careful consideration. Here are some simple tips that will help you through the upgrade process to find the bow that’s just right for you. 

If you haven’t purchased a new bow in a decade, brace yourself. Whatever you paid for your last one will likely only cover about half the cost of a new bow in 2019. Flagship offerings ranging from $700 to $1700 are available, with most of them carrying a $1000 to $1200 price tag. And this doesn’t include accessories. This goes for the hunting market as well as the target bow market. It’s not all doom and gloom, however.

One way to offset costs is to purchase a kit bow. These are much less expensive and come fully accessorized, but you’ll sacrifice some on quality and performance. That’s just how it is.

Another way to offset costs is to keep an eye out for last years’ models. Some retailers will push out there older stock at a solid discount, which means you can sometimes pick up a great rig at a deeply discounted price.

Perhaps the best way to get over the sticker shock is to think of your new bow purchase as a longer-term investment. In other words, if you are comfortable wringing five years or more out of a bow, the overall cost of your new bow amortized over that time makes it much easier to stomach.

There’s also one more important thing you shouldn’t forget: quality costs money. It just does, and if you’re really itching to enjoy the experience of shooting both in the field and at the range, it’s worth it the investment. 

Today’s high-end compounds are efficient, and any bow that generates enough energy to blow an arrow through a whitetail will most likely put down a bull elk as well. Arrow speed and efficiency aren’t much of an issue across the board these days, so it’s best to factor in personal preference for the type of shooting you do and the terrain you’ll be hunting.

For the mountain bowhunter, less weight is always welcome. Many of today’s bows are built upon carbon risers, which means they tip the scales at fewer than four pounds. Once accessorized, these rigs will often weigh in at around six pounds. Other bows, especially those with aluminum risers, will start out a little heavier.

If you have to climb 1000 vertical feet to start your morning elk hunt, you’ll probably want to start with the lightest bows you can find. Conversely, if you walk 300 yards to your deer stand and hang your bow up for the majority of your hunts, or if you’re just looking for a good rig for target shooting at your local range, you probably don’t need to focus on bow weight. In fact, you might want to lean toward a bow that is a bit heavier because as a general rule, a hefty bow will be a quieter bow. Shot-sequence noise in the mountains on mule deer or elk isn’t much of an issue, but when you’re dealing with cagey, string-jumping whitetails it is, so keep that in mind.

Your experience level will factor into a new bow purchase as well. How into bowhunting or target archery are you? If you’re diehard, you probably don’t need to be talked into anything. If you’re not, you’ll probably argue with yourself over whether a new bow purchase is worth it or if it’s even necessary.

No one can make that call for you. The thing is, a new bow will almost undoubtedly shoot better than your old bow. That will produce two very desirable effects. The first is enjoyment. Watching an arrow go where it’s supposed to over and over is fun, and that’s the main reason to shoot a bow—and it’s a good one.

The second positive outcome to buying a new bow is confidence. Shooting confidence increases enjoyment, and makes you want to shoot more. Confidence is a must-have for target-archers and bowhunters alike, so while it’s a great intangible in the overall process, it’s not to be undersold. A new bow won’t guarantee you Olympic-caliber results, but it will inevitably nudge you in a direction to get (and be) better. 

Buying a brand new bow should be a process. Be patient, and find a pro shop that will work with you. Shoot as many bows as you can that are set up to your exact specifications. Whether you’re simply into target shooting or plan to hunt moose in Alaska someday, focus on how the bow feels in your hands throughout the entire shot cycle. There will be a few models that just work for you, and you’ll know it after a dozen shots. At that point, it’s a matter of narrowing down your choices and making the final decision, which is always fun.

This month, I’m starting the pre-season turkey process all over again to ensure that my shooting skills and equipment are in top-shape before the season opens in April.

I’m also starting to think about taking a few leisurely walks through some of my hunting grounds to take note of where the wintering flocks are right now, because many of those birds will be around when the opening bell rings. If you’re interested in having a killer turkey season this year, you might want to adopt a similar strategy, which starts by planning some appropriate practice sessions.

When it comes to spring turkeys, most of us bowhunt from a hub-style blind. This means that you must be able to draw your bow straight back to your anchor point without lifting your bow arm. In other words, you need to be shooting a bow that is set to a draw weight you can easily handle.

The easiest way to figure this out is to set up a target and hold your bow arm out while loosely aiming your 20-yard pin at the target. Slowly draw the bow while trying to move as little as possible. If you struggle at all, you’re pulling too much weight and should back out your limb bolts by a full turn or maybe two. 

Once you can draw this way without struggling in the least, grab your blind chair or an office chair and make sure that when you’re seated, nothing changes in your drawing motion. Eventually, I like to practice wearing all of my gear while shooting out of my blind at a 3D turkey target. If you do this once or twice a week, you’ll be deadly in the field. 

And speaking target practice, consider buying at least one 3D target. They come in full strut or walking/standing turkey options. Either way a life-sized, anatomically correct target will allow you to concentrate on exactly where you should aim on a real bird, and will help you become a better bow shot overall. I like to set up my decoys for close shots, but I always practice with these turkey targets from maybe five yards to 40. This keeps things fun and really allows me to really dial in before the season opens. 

Bowhunting turkeys is also perfect for testing out a single-pin sight, because most shots will be close. If you’ve considered using a single-pin mover for big game but are cautious, try it out during the turkey pre-season and then throughout your hunting season. A lot of archers benefit greatly from an uncluttered sight window as well as a single, vertical pin, which makes target acquisition quick and easy. 

Three Mistakes Every New Turkey Bowhunter Should Avoid

Photograph by Tony J. Peterson

1. Not Practicing With Broadheads: Don’t assume that because you choose a mechanical head that it will fly just like your field points. Practice with your broadheads to match arrows to specific heads so you know exactly where your point-of-impact will be.

2. Rushing Your Shot: When a gobbler approaches your decoys, be patient. If you’re using quality fakes, he’ll commit and eventually focus solely on your decoys—usually your jake decoy if you have one out. At that point, you’ll have a perfect opportunity to draw, settle and pick your shot.

3. Not Brushing In Your Blind: Lots of people will tell you that you don’t need to brush your blind in when it comes to turkeys, but don’t believe that. Tuck your blind into the cover well before the season opens if possible, and then brush it in so it truly blends into the environment and won’t flare in the bright sunlight and spook approaching birds.

The biggest considerations for spring turkey hunts are blinds and decoys. When it comes to decoys, I always recommend people buy the best quality, most realistic options available. They are always worth the expense when you’re trying to trick a tom into range.

When it comes to blinds, size, weight, and window configuration are important considerations. If you’ll be hunting with a partner, bigger is always better. If you’ll be by yourself, you won’t need too big of a blind, but no matter what, you’ll want to practice shooting from it regularly before the season starts. Shooting through a blind window can be tricky, and more than a few of us have sent an arrow through the side of our blinds in a panic. 

Not only should you set up your blinds to shoot from them, you should do it just to get used to the process of putting them up and breaking them down. Familiarity here can lead to a lot less stress when it’s dawn and you’re scrambling in the gloaming to quietly erect a blind while birds are gobbling from the roost 150 yards away.

The other thing worth mentioning here is that February is a great time to mess with new calls, or learn to master the ones you already own. I carry several mouth calls in my truck at all times to practice with while I’m driving somewhere by myself. At home, as long as it won’t drive my family or my dog nuts, I’ll spend some time practicing with my slate and box calls as well. As with shooting, a little calling practice each week now will lead to more confidence and success in a couple of months when it’s showtime. 

You have a couple of months to get everything dialed before turkey season if you start right now. Consider everything from your bow setup to blind choice to all of your equipment needs now, so that by the time you’re setting a 3:30 a.m. alarm in anticipation of opening morning, you’ll be ready to go. 

How do you progress to the next level? The same way you get to Carnegie Hall—practice, practice, practice. But practice can also be fun.

The more you shoot, the better your skills will become. But just going to the range and blasting away is pointless and will lead to bad habits. You need to practice with a focused objective in mind and in a way that measures your performance and improvement.

Here are a few drills that will build your basic shooting skills. These are “entry-level” exercises, designed to build confidence, but they’re also fun. Don’t worry about speed at this point; that will come later. For now, stay focused on the basics of sight picture and trigger control, and you’ll be surprised at how fast your handgun shooting will improve. Here goes.

This drill comes from Dan Smith, the co-owner of International Cartridge Company and a long-time competitive shooter. Dan says it goes back to a tip that Ray Chapman taught him during a shooting school in 1983.

Every top pistol shooter will tell you that fundamentals are the key to shooting well. Sight picture and trigger control are critical for any successful shooting.

By starting each shooting session with this simple, close-range, precision drill, the shooter is “programmed” to focus on the fundamentals of sight picture and trigger control. This drill helps program your mind and helps to set the stage for the rest of the shooting session. It’s also a good idea to end each session with this drill as it will help you to refocus on your trigger and sights. And with the tiny groups you’ll get as a result, it will leave your with a positive mental end to the day.

1. Place a one-inch target paster of contrasting color on the target. 

2. Move back to five yards. 

3. Using a standing, two-hand hold, slowly fire 10 shots at the paster with your pistol.
   
   Take as much time as you need. Don’t rush. The goal is to keep all 10 shots on the paster and in a single, one-inch (or smaller) group.

   You will need perfect sight alignment, with equal light on each side of the front sight and a perfect trigger pull or the shot will not be on the paster. Even a small error in sight alignment or trigger pull will show up, with a shot out of the group.

   You will see the bullet holes and know where each shot hit. Every time you pull a shot off the paster, there is a reason. Maybe you let the sights wander; the sight picture was bad, you jerked the trigger, or your grip was poor, but something caused that bullet to miss.

4. Slow down; focus on the fundamentals. Think of nothing else but putting the next bullet through the paster.

5. Keep trying until all of your shots are on the paster. Then proceed to the rest of your training session knowing that your mind and body are focused on precision. 

This is a very casual drill. The idea is to use a smallish, reactive target. There are a lot of commercial targets, both synthetic and steel, that will work. 

But it’s cheaper to use soup cans, clay pigeons, square blocks of wood cut from a 2X4, or anything that is about 3 to 5 inches in size that will react when hit; be innovative. 

1. Place five targets at 25 yards. Later, as your skills build, move them out in 5 yard increments until you are able to complete the drill at 50 yards.

2. From the shooting line, shoot each of the five targets in succession.

3. Shoot from a standing, two handed position. Take your time and work for precision. The goal is to hit all five without a miss.

4. If you can do that five times in succession, it’s time to move the targets further away.

This drill builds on the fundamentals of sight alignment and trigger control, but at an elevated level as the distance magnifies any mistakes. 

Make Sure You Have The Right Ammo

Photograph Courtesy of Vista Outdoor

To find the right load for your handgun, shoot a series of 5-shot groups using sandbags to support your wrists. By carefully firing different loads this way, you’ll soon discover which ammo works best in your gun.

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Most handguns have some preference in the ammo they like. For practice, you will want to buy ammo based on price as much as anything else, but it’s important that the ammo be accurate and reliable in your handgun. It’s also important that the point of impact match the point of aim.

Different weight bullets within a given cartridge can have a dramatic effect on the point of impact. With adjustable sights this is not a problem. Simply adjust the sights until the point of impact matches the point of aim at a given distance, usually 15 to 25 yards depending on the shooter’s preference.

If you have fixed sights on the gun, you may need to experiment with ammo to find a load and bullet weight that matches your gun’s sights. Most fixed sights can be moved side to side to correct for windage, but there is no easy provision for adjusting vertical point of impact. Bullet weight changes the impact up or down on the target so often a specific bullet weight will impact correctly for the sights. Typically, the heavier the bullet the higher the impact.

When testing:

1. Shoot at a bench from a sitting position.

2. Use a support like a sandbag to support your wrists, not the handgun.

3. Fire each shot with precision and careful attention to sight alignment and trigger control.

4. Always fire a group of three shots, or even better, five shots before making any changes.

Once you have your gun and ammo matched to impact at the point of aim and you are getting good groups of perhaps 2 inches or smaller at 15 yards, you are ready to start shooting these drills.

This drill was developed by Kyle Lamb for rifle shooting, but it is a great training drill for handgun shooters as well. The 2X2X2 is a simple drill designed to build speed and accuracy while transitioning to multiple targets. The key is to do it smoothly and to shoot accurately.

In the 2X2X2 drill you fire two “controlled pairs” at each target. A controlled pair is where each shot is aimed and the shooter must see the sights on the target before breaking the next shot. The shooter must also drive the gun from target to target, but stop the sights on target to break the shots. Do not try to shoot as the gun swings past the target.

The cadence should be fast enough so that the split time between the shots will be just about equal to the splits between targets. The result is six evenly spaced shots that can be checked by looking at the split times on the timer, if you are using one.

Only center hits count. Any shots outside of the “C” zone on an USPSA or the -1 zone of an IDPA target will not count. Remember the goals are accuracy and speed, in that order.

1. Three targets are evenly spaced, side by side and placed five yards in front of the shooter. This drill is usually shot from the holster. However, a new shooter will be safer having the gun in their hands in the low ready position to start. Later, as your confidence and skills build, you can practice the drill by drawing from the holster.

2. At the start, engage each target in order, firing two shots each. Right to left or left to right is shooter’s choice. The goal is to have both shots hit the target in the scoring ring.

3. As you master that skill, you can start to go a little faster.

This builds skills in target acquisition as you move from target to target. 

This is a variation on the old kick-the-can shooting drill. In fact, you can use cans for this rather than a manufactured target. However, the manufactured targets hold up better and roll a bit more predictably.

Make sure you have a safe background to do this shooting drill.

This is a competition, so you need two shooters and two targets.

1. Mark a goal line using paint or some type of marker.

2. Place the targets 15 feet in front of the goal line.

3. Two shooters stand with their handguns at low ready.

4. At the start, they shoot at the target, moving it with multiple hits it until it passes the goal line.

5. The first one across wins.

This drill is simple, but huge fun and it’s a great skill builder. 

Because these vehicles are meant to be used on unpaved areas, there are risks involved, thus certain pieces of gear are required if you want to ride safely. Depending on where you plan to go, you may be able to rent a lot of items from local outfitters—especially in tourist areas. Considering that a brand new ATV can run anywhere from $3,000 to over $12,000, giving the sport a “test drive” by renting is just smart.

Here’s the essential gear needed for riding ATVs:

 Head and neck injuries account for 29 percent of ATV-related injuries. Don’t be a hot shot—always, always wear a helmet.

Not only will they make it easier to see where you’re going, they’ll save your eyeballs from unexpected encounters with rocks, dust, and branches.

This means long pants and shirtsleeves, boots that go over the ankle, gloves, and a chest protector. Remember that you’re riding in areas where anything and everything can be kicked up by your vehicle, so don’t take any chances of being the target of some random projectile. Also, you can get seriously nasty burns if you fall off. The right clothing can minimize any injuries. 

A fully-charged cell phone in case you get lost or someone gets seriously hurt.

Pack a few basic items like a Swiss Army knife, duct tape, and a vise grip. Experienced riders also swear by those plastic zip ties—you’d be surprised at how many uses they have.

A flat tire or slow leak can ruin your ride.

When your riding partner has gotten their vehicle stuck in a crazy place, this could make the difference in getting it back on the trail—or not.

You never know when you and your riding partner may need to patch up a few cuts and scrapes. And while most cell phones have a GPS feature, batteries don’t last forever. Take a map of the area (if available) and compass with you in case you have to navigate the old-fashioned way.  

It’s easy to lose track of your fuel when you’re having fun. Pack extra.

You’d be surprised at how fast you can get dehydrated when riding, especially in the warm summer months. Dehydration can make you feel faint, so drinking enough water won’t just make your ride more comfortable, it’s a good safety tip.

So before climbing aboard, take the time to outfit all members of your “ATV team” with the right gear. It will make your ride much more fun—not to mention, safe.

*Note: Age restrictions, special licenses, and other requirements for off highway vehicles vary from state to state. Before heading out on your OHV, please consult your local regulations.

Annihilator Broadheads represent bowhunting’s answer to the stealth fighter. The good folks at Annihilator started with the concept of getting rid of surfaces that lead to inconsistent or, worse, inaccurate arrow flight. What they came up with was a fixed-blade arrow tip that looks and flies like an F-35. The broadhead is crafted from a single piece of one of the toughest metals out there, 4140 steel alloy, and is molded into a scooped-out wedge that claims the largest cutting surface of any broadhead out there (0.18 square inch). Although it boasts the aerodynamics of a field point, the Annihilator actually has a large overall surface area. This, in turn, also aids in penetration because it reduces friction by forcing anything that it’s displacing away from the center of the arrow. Annihilator won the gold medal for products that made their debut at ATA 2020.

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Another gold medal winner at ATA 2020—for new products launched at the show—Out on a Limb’s Shikar Climbing Sticks were certainly a show-stopper, especially for bowhunters who prefer to hunt from a saddle. The Shikar weighs in at 24 ounces, which makes it the lightest climbing stick available to bowhunters. The Shikar is customizable and comes in two configurations: Single step or double step. Depending on the configuration you choose, the Shikar folds down to a low-profile 23 or 27 inches long and is only about an inch or so wide at any given point. The climbing stick is rated to 300 lbs. and features an aid attachment hole toward the bottom to assist in giving hunters a little more elevation from their vantage point. There’s even an optional platform that can be placed on top of the stick for those who hunt from a sling.

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Just released in November 2019 and making its debut at ATA 2020, Black Gold’s Mountain Lite bow sight stirred up a lot of buzz at the show. The Mountain Lite boasts all of the same features as Black Gold’s industry-leading Ascent Verdict but in a more-compact, lightweight package. The Level Head sight ring is easy to adjust, more secure and can be customized. The Mountain Lite also boasts a new dual indicator system that features two indexable needles. The angled sight tape can be seen from the side or from the back, and unlike most other movable sights, the Mountain Lite works well with one-piece quivers. You can even mount an optional 2x or 4x lens on the sight to bring your targets closer.

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One of ATA 2020’s most high-tech products were the Bloodhound XTN Tracking Nock from Kirsch Hunting. The Bloodhound XTN is a nock that detaches from the shaft of your arrow as it passes through the target. While the shaft and the head pass through to be recovered later, the Bloodhound XTN clings to the target, and sends off a signal that will allow you to track your fame within 400 yards using the handheld Bloodhound tracker. With the Bloodhound XTN Tracking Nock, you will recover more game, prevent spoilage, and decrease the risk of other predators finding your prey before you do.

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One of the beauties of fall fishing is that you don’t have to be on the water at the crack of dawn. Midday, when the sun is at its peak, is prime time for bass as sunshine warming the surface water temperature will help trigger the bite. And don’t forget to keep an eye on the forecast.

A few warmer days, when you get a rapid rise in daytime temperatures upwards toward the 60’s, can drive fish crazy. If storms are predicted, try fishing incoming fronts as falling barometric pressure often triggers fish to feed. As the storm passes, fishing the backside, as the barometer rises, is also a good time to find fish in a hungry mood.

Bass and other species tend to stay deeper when water temperatures are warmer, but as the water cools in fall, look for bass to head for shallower waters in search of food.

Migrating groups of shad are a favorite baitfish at this time of year. Look for schools of shad busting the surface and bass won’t be far away. Underwater points and the deep edges of aquatic vegetation are also great places to target. In northern lakes, rock piles often attract smallmouth bass and walleyes in the fall.

On reservoirs, look for meanders in creek bottoms and river beds or isolated stump fields. These serve as natural gathering places for fall fish that are generally far more scattered earlier in the season. Fall is also a great time to cast under docks or right along the edge of a dock’s shadow line.

Unlike earlier in the season, when fish are highly active and apt to crash any topwater lure you throw at them, cold-blooded fish move slower as water temperatures begin to cool down. This calls for slow retrieves that tease fish into striking. Bass and larger fish species want to conserve energy (and weight) when water temperatures begin to drop, so they tend to key on larger baitfish. Now is the time to throw those big lures you’ve been saving.

Try using larger shad imitators and a purposely-slow retrieve. Jerking your lure occasionally to imitate an injured baitfish may be all it takes to force a strike. Lipless crankbaits, like Strike King’s Red Eyed Shad are great choice for fall bass as their action and the vibration of their free-floating rattles in the water imitates an injured baitfish that bass can’t resist.

Large spinnerbaits are another good choice to use as they imitate shad that have grown to three inches or more later in the fall. You can use faster retrieves if you’re seeing shad on top being chased, but using slow retrieves along the bottom will often draw strikes from big bass that may be farther down.

Looking to catch the biggest bass in the lake? Try throwing a 5- to 10-inch glide bait like Berkley’s Power Nessie. These single-jointed lures really look like a real fish and their swimming action on retrieves is super enticing. Fish them 10 to 15 feet deep and give your retrieves a jerk every now and then to resemble a darting fish. Sometimes just that little bit of extra action is all you need to draw a monster strike.

No bites on any of the above? Try throwing soft plastic baits, like artificial crawfish or plastic worms, or even topwater lures.

Bass can be finicky in fall, but on warmer days the action can be red hot. And chances are you’ll have big stretches of water all to yourself.

The Leatherman Cam is a multitool that is specifically designed to meet the needs of bowhunters. This single-piece pocket tool is equipped with eight bit options, a gut hook, a broadhead wrench, and a broadhead sharpener—all in a single, carabinered package that you can clip on or slip into a pocket on the way to the field or the range.

A rangefinder is a key piece of equipment for any bowhunter. The Nikon Arrow ID 3000 will help your favorite bowhunter aim more precisely and make more accurate shots. This compact, lightweight rangefinder is designed with superior optics, including Tru-Target Technology, which allows a hunter to toggle between two different ranging modes. The onboard ID Technology adjusts for inclines and declines when aiming, allowing for arrow drop compensation over longer distances. 

The MTM Compact Arrow Case is a great storage solution for those times when you’re not in the field. The compact case holds 24 target arrows or 18 broadheads. The foam liners ensure that the arrows’ fletching stays protected and separated. Rugged construction and padlock tabs will help secure your arrows until you’re ready to use them.

If you head out into the field early in the morning, are coming back late at night, or on a multi-day hunt, a headlamp is always a wise thing to have along. You can light your way while keeping both hands free. The Petzl TacTikka + RGB Headlamp was designed with the hunter in mind. It comes in camo colors and, in addition to bright, white beam, the headlamp can be toggled to red, green or blue light to preserve night vision and ensure stealth. Add the USB-rechargeable Petzl Core battery, and you won’t have to worry about bringing extras.  

Help your favorite bowhunter make shots with more precision (while preserving their fingers) with a Scott Archery Shark Release. One of the most popular releases on the market, the Shark is a dual caliper release with a solid swivel adjuster. Five adjustment holes will make sure it’s the right fit, and the forward-positioned trigger will maximize your draw length.

When bowhunters aren’t in the field, they need to keep their archery skills sharp, and that means target practice. So, any bowhunter would be more than happy to receive a Block Classic Archery Target as a gift. Block Targets come in a variety of sizes and use a patented technology that stops arrows with friction rather than force. The layered design also allows for easier arrow removal, so that your favorite archer can spend more time shooting and less time pulling arrows.

All bowhunters need a good pack for gear, and few do the job better than the ALPS Outdoorz Pursuit Bow Pack. Tailored specifically to archers, the Pursuit has a built-in, expandable bow pocket, so you can keep both hands free, as well as quiver holders on each side of the pack. The large pockets have plenty of room to carry gear for multi-day hunts or to pack out meat.

Big game season for bowhunters often coincides with chilly weather, so it’s always a good idea to have some solid outerwear like the Under Armour Ridge Reaper Windstopper Jacket. The jacket comes in camo and is made with GoreTex Windstopper technology to keep the wind out and a soft, microfleece lining to keep the warmth in. The Ridge Reaper is designed to be quiet, helping you stay silent in the field.

This extremely simple meal can be cooked on or near a fire, or on a grill or camp stove. Simply chop up some potatoes, peppers, and onions—add other vegetables if you wish—season them to taste and put them on a square of aluminum foil. Then, pick a protein to throw into the mix, like chopped steak or chunks of Italian sausage. Add a few pats of butter to the mélange, fold it up and put it on the heat. After a few minutes, check on the pack, give it a stir and fold it back up. When the protein is thoroughly cooked, serve the packets to your eager campers.

Breakfast is an important meal when camping—and every day, of course—because it helps you to ease into the morning, warm up, and shake off the cobwebs. At the same time, it’s important that breakfast be fast and simple for all the same reasons. For each sandwich, crack two eggs into a bowl. Add salt and pepper to taste, and red pepper flakes if you’re feeling it. If you have milk or cream, add a little bit to the eggs. If you like, add some chopped onions and/or peppers, or even a little diced ham or bacon to the mix. Whip the mixture with a fork until the color is consistent. Put two slices of bread or a halved English muffin, as well as some cheese, on standby. 

On a camp stove, a grill, or over a fire, heat a pan large enough to hold two slices of your bread of choice side by side. Drop some butter into the pan and coat the bottom with it. Once the butter is sizzling, pour the egg mixture into the pan. While the egg mixture is still runny, dip one side of each slice of bread into the eggs, then flip it and leave it in the egg mixture until the eggs are cooked through. Then, flip the whole business so that it’s bread-side down in the pan. Fold the extra egg flaps up onto the bread, and add cheese, if you like. Then fold one slice of bread onto the other slice to form a sandwich. When the pan-side bread has browned, flip the sandwich to brown the other side. Serve with hot sauce.

It doesn’t get much easier than this quick and tasty recipe, which can be made on a camp stove or over a fire. Boil a pot of water, add enough instant rice to meet the appetites of the folks who are eating, then stir in canned chicken, cream of mushroom soup, black pepper and other spices to taste. Once the rice is ready, serve it up. This dish can be made even more backpacker friendly by substituting instant mushroom soup, freeze dried chicken breast, or a mix like Patagonia Provisions Organic Mushroom and Savory Grains in place of the canned ingredients.

A campfire frittata is a great one-pan meal that your campers will love for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Although a cast iron pan is typical, an anodized aluminum pan, like Firebox Stove’s frypan, will work just as well. Whichever pan you’re using, warm it over a camp stove or fire, then coat the entire surface with butter. Pour a mixture of eggs, cheese, salt, pepper, sliced potatoes, and, literally, anything else you want to add—ham, bacon, asparagus, green beans, onions, peppers, whatever sounds good—into the pan. Cook it until the mixture sets up, then slice it like pie, and sling it at your campers. If you’re cooking on a campfire, you may want to use a lid or metal plate to cover the pan.

Whether you bring it from the market or catch your own while camping, fish tacos make for a delicious and simple midday or evening meal on your camp stove or over a fire. To start, you’ll need to make some corn salsa. You can either grill fresh corn on the cob over the fire or stove (recommended) or use bagged corn from the store (quicker). Avoid canned corn—it’s too mushy. If you grill, also grill a fresh jalapeño. Then shave the kernels from the corn into a dish and dice the pepper and stir it in with the corn. Otherwise, chop and lightly sauté the jalapeño in a pan with the bagged corn. Then add some lime juice, diced onion, and cilantro to the mix. If you like, toss in some canned black beans for a little something extra.

For the fish, use fillets. Roll the fillets in a mixture of corn meal and chili powder to taste. Heat up a pan with just enough oil to cover the bottom, and when the oil is hot, add the fish. When the fish is done, warm some corn tortillas on the grill or in a metal plate. Be careful not to leave them too long—they will warm quickly. Slice the fish into strips and place them onto tortillas. Top with diced tomatoes, onions, lime juice, and cilantro. Use your favorite hot sauce at will. Serve with the corn salsa and tortilla chips. 

Frogmore Stew, named for a now-gone South Carolina town and perfected by Bowens Island Restaurant in Charleston, is an incredibly simple way to splurge a little and feed a group of hungry campers at the same time. A low country boil is definitely not a dish for backpackers, but for car campers it’s perfect. All you need is a large pot and a source of heat—for this recipe a campfire is better than a camp stove.

Toss 6 to 8 cups of cold water, 3 tablespoons of Old Bay seasoning, and a dash of hot sauce into the pot and bring the water to a boil. Then add a pound and a half of new red potatoes and cook them 10 to 15 minutes, until they’re soft (poke them with a form to see). Add two pounds of Polska Kielbasa, cut into 1 to 2-inch lengths, and 6 ears of corn, broken in half. Cook for another 5 minutes. Then toss 2 pounds of shell-on fresh (36- to 40-count) on top of the boil and pull the pot off the fire.

Stir the boil gently, until the shrimp start to turn pink. Then drain the pot and serve immediately.

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This classic Creole dish is always popular around a campsite, and there’s no real recipe—just add ingredients to taste and based on the number of campers you’re feeding. Heat up a pot, a Dutch oven works best, over your campfire or cook stove. Add enough olive oil to coat the bottom and let it heat up until it starts to sizzle a little. Toss in some sliced or chunked sausage. Andouille is the classic type, but any sausage will do. Then add diced onion, celery, bell pepper, and Cajun seasoning to taste. Sauté the mixture until the veggies are tender.

Next add canned diced tomatoes, some minced garlic, a few bay leaves, a little diced thyme, a cup or more of rice, and enough chicken broth to cook it in. Stir, taste, and add more chicken broth, as needed. When the rice is nearly ready, toss in a pound or so of uncooked, tail-on shrimp and let it go until the shrimp start to turn pink, then pull it off the fire, fish out the bay leaves, and voilà!

Crossbows can be expensive—it is easy to pay $1,000 or more for a quality bow—so one consideration for beginners is finding a crossbow that will perform well without putting too big a dent in your wallet. If you’re serious about crossbow archery and are also considering using the bow for hunting, you’ll need an accurate bow that fires bolts at 200 feet per second (fps) or more. In fact, many states have FPS minimums for crossbow hunting. Even if you’re just interested in target shooting, a higher bolt velocity will result in more accurate targeting. When looking for a starter crossbow, something like the Barnett Assault 350 is good place to begin. It’s made by a reputable company in the space, delivers bolts at 350 fps, and is priced at under $500.

The most important thing to look for, initially, when buying bolts is finding those that are the correct size for your crossbow. Check the manual for the recommended bolt size—it will usually list the recommended length and weight for the shaft and for any heads you wish to use. Carbon fiber is the preferred shaft material these days, and Excalibur manufactures a variety of quality bolts.

Some bolts will ship with target or field points, others will not, so you may have to purchase them separately from the bolt. And if you intend to hunt larger game, you will need to pick up some broadheads. Check the recommended head weight for your crossbow and look for heads or points in the appropriate weight range. Cabela’s sells a variety of popular crossbow heads and points, like their Lazer Strike II three-blade broadheads.

Many states require you to keep your crossbow in a case while transporting it in a vehicle, so it’s a good idea to have one. Besides, a case is a great way to keep all your gear together in one place, as they typically have extra space for storing string or rail wax and bolts. The Excalibur Deluxe Crossbow Case is a pretty basic design with plenty of storage capacity, and it will fit most bows.

Keeping your crossbow string waxed will help to ensure accuracy and extend the life of the string. How often you wax your string will depend on how often you shoot your bow and the environment in which you store it. A good guideline is to wax your string according to your manufacturer’s specifications. If you’re unsure, wax after every 10 shots or so. Or if you can no longer feel wax on the string, it probably needs to be waxed. Ten Point String Wax and Conditioner is well regarded and made with crossbows in mind.

Whether you’re in the field or on the range, you’ll need a quiver to carry your bolts. Typical options include a quiver mounted on the crossbow itself, either to the side, with nocks facing back toward the trigger for easy access or perpendicular to the stock beneath the bow, itself. Such quivers are good for limited forays in the field, however, they cannot hold many bolts and sometimes feel less accessible than a back or hip quiver. A hip quiver, like the Easton Flipside, attaches to your belt for quick access, and can carry several more bolts than a crossbow-mounted quiver.

Another important consideration for maintaining your crossbow and ensuring performance is keeping the rail adequately lubricated. A product like Scorpion Venom Crossbow Rail Lube helps to extend the life of the server area of the bowstring and ensures that your bolts launch smoothly.

Getting into them is easy enough, but getting out tends to be more difficult. Deer are very likely to bust you slipping out in the dark. Once that happens a few times, their education level catches up and deer will be less likely to step into the groceries within the hours of legal shooting light. 

This means you must have a plan that stretches beyond simply sitting over an agricultural field or food plot to be successful on deer early in the season. Here are four of my favorite go-to ambush sites for early-fall bowhunting.

I travel to several states each fall to hunt public land whitetails and my strategy always involves water. Ponds, creeks, rivers, you-name-it. If it can satisfy a buck’s thirst, I’ll check it out. It’s not just on the road where I focus on water setups, however. 

Deer need to drink every day. Remember that, and use it to your advantage. While you’re hanging cameras and setting stands and blinds, try to have at least one ambush site that involves water. Unlike field-edge stands, where the soybeans could be a big draw this week and not-so-much next week, water stays consistent. 

Water also gives you the chance to hunt when the conditions say you should stay at home (and most of your hunting competition will). Hot, early-season days are common. These are the kinds of days when most people will find something else to do besides hunt, but that can be a mistake. If it’s unseasonably warm, the deer will move and when they do, they’ll point their noses at the nearest drink. When they do, you should be there. 

Concentrating on funnels and pinch-points is a strategy that capitalizes on terrain features that force specific deer movement. The thing is, this happens all year long and not just in November. 

That bottleneck of timber between two woodlots will be a go-to spot on Halloween, but deer will also filter through during mid-September. Setting a few of these stands up now will get you ready for the rut, but it can also be productive from the season opener on. Better yet, while it’s often difficult to find quality ambush sites for morning sits in the early-season, funnels, pinch-points and bottlenecks often qualify. 

Every chunk of deer ground that is 40 acres or larger will feature a couple of good spots that are simply without good stand trees. This means it’s time to set up ground blinds. 

This strategy is particularly good for early-season hunts, because that is the time when bucks are most likely to be bedding in grassy swales, shelter-belts, and cattail sloughs. If you have a patch of cover that the deer love to bed in, but that doesn’t allow for an aerial strategy, take a hub-style turkey blind in and set it up. 

Make sure you clear out the brush down to the dirt inside the blind, and then brush it in. A good rule to follow is that if you think you’ve got it brushed in good enough, spend about 15 more minutes really working to get the blind to disappear into the greenery. Deer won’t tolerate a camouflage cube showing up in their neighborhood, and they won’t stand for a glowing spot in the woods where the morning sun is beaming down on a flat part of a blind’s roof. Take the time to make it disappear, and make sure to get your blind out at least a couple of weeks before the season opener to give passing deer a chance to accept it. 

When you’re setting up stands and blinds in the preseason, you can’t over-mark a trail. Reflective tacks are cheap, as is biodegradable flagging tape, so don’t be shy when marking a trail. If your entrance route takes a hard turn at some point, develop a system to ensure you know when to cut 90 degrees or more. I like to use double tacks in the tree. 

Never assume you’ll remember a route to a new ambush site once you’ve set it up, unless it’s a field edge stand that you’ll only use during evening hunts. If you’re planning to slip in, anywhere, for a morning hunt, mark your trail well. You’ll not only find your spot quickly, you’ll disturb the woods much less and enjoy better action once the sun rises. 

There is a world of options for the early-season bowhunter beyond sitting over a field or a food plot. Consider water, funnels, and treeless patches of cover in your plan to arrow an early-season bruiser. Get these setups in now, mark them well, and rest easy knowing you’re ready for the opening bell. 

The Yellow Jacket YJ-450 Plus is an incredibly durable bag target with several options to challenge beginners and help them to hone their archery skills. The YJ-450 Plus is a free-standing bag with its own internal frame system and more than 90 layers of material to produce incredible stopping power for arrows fired at speeds faster than even 450 feet per second—and easy arrow removal afterward. The bag’s four sides offer plenty of target varieties that will push beginning archers to improve.

The Rhinoblock XL target from Rhinehart is about as durable as they come, and with six sides of 18-inch by 15-inch target zone, offers plenty of challenges for archers of all skill levels. The Rhinoblock XL offers superior arrow stoppage, halting projectiles fired at speeds well over 300 feet per second. There are two features that set Rhinoblock XL apart from the competition. First, you can safely use broadheads with the target. In addition, the target’s foam core is replaceable, so you won’t have to purchase a whole new target once you’ve put it through its paces. 

The Hurricane H-20 is a heavy-duty bag target with plenty of features to challenge beginning archers. Its heavy-duty, tri-core construction makes for superior durability and long target life. The Hurricane H-20 also boasts high-visibility aiming points, which allow archers to maximize their ranges. One side of the Hurricane H-20 offers several targets, the reverse mimics the broadside vital areas of a deer. The latter are offset from the centers of the targets on the opposite side in order to prolong the life of the H-20.

Beginning bowhunters will appreciate all the features found on the three-dimensional GlenDel Buck target. The Buck is built with open-layered, polyfusion technology which means easy arrow removal—and you can use either field tips or broadheads. The GlenDel Buck target comes in three sizes that mimic the proportions of whitetail bucks at various stages of maturity. The buck’s vital area is a replaceable insert, so you can use the target for years of realistic hunting practice.

Block, the maker of the most popular archery target on the market, makes the Block Infinity Target, which is ideal for beginners, thanks to its variety of targets and industry-leading durability. The Infinity Target boasts multiple aiming points, in a variety of shapes and locations, on all six sides of the block. It’s made with a layered polyfusion technology that allows for easy arrow removal and an ability to stop both field points and broadheads fired at speeds up to 500 feet per second.

The Big Shooter Buck is another three-dimensional deer target that mimics the shape of a whitetail deer. What makes this target great for beginning bowhunters is that its price point tends to be much lower than that of comparable targets. In addition to stopping all broadheads and field points, which can be easily removed from the target, the Big Shooter Bucks vitals are inserts that can be replaced once they’ve been damaged beyond the point of utility.